How to Buy Vintage Levi 501 Jeans

Levi’s first pair of jeans were designed for coal miners. Patented for their copper rivets on the pockets, they were engineered to handle tools and to prevent ripping holes. The first pair of jeans ever released by Levi were the 501 XX, and the rest is history.

The Levi 501 jeans are the original pair and boast the iconic fit. With a button fly, straight leg and mid rise fit, they are flattering on all figures and do wonders for your bum, making getting your hands on a pair of vintage 501s even more worthwhile. Made from 100% cotton, Levi jeans give no stretch or give, making them a substantial pair of jeans. A vintage pair of 501s can set you back more than £1000, but follow these tips to help you find the perfect pair of Levi 501 jeans - and getting your money's worth.

1. Understanding the model and era of Vintage Levi’s

Since the first pair launched in 1873 there have been multiple releases of the 501. Understanding their characteristics will help you know if you are getting the best for your money.

501 Big ‘E’

Circa: 1960

If you look at the red tab on the back there will be a big ‘E’. This big ‘E’ means that they were manufactured before the 1970s. Be prepared to pay big bucks for the big ‘E’ as they can go for £1000 upwards and are a collectors item. They have a single stitch in the back pockets and are made from selvedge denim.

501 Redline Single Stitch

Circa: Early 1970s

These are characterised by the single stitch in the back pocket. There is also a single letter or number stamped on the top button. This indicates that there will be a single stitch. A triple would indicate a double stitch - which are newer.

501 Redline Double Stitch

Circa: Late 1970s to 1980s

The most common vintage jeans you will find are the redline double stitch. Inside the cuff of the jeans you will see a thick hem on the outseam. There will be a natural white border and red coloured selvedge.

Traditional 501

Circa: Late 1980s - 1990s

The traditional 501s have the popular light denim wash and don’t have the stretch of modern jeans. They also don’t have the redline like the older model. 

2. Know the true size of the Levi’s

Every pair has been worn, so they will wear differently and fit your body differently. If you are buying online, knowing your measurements like your waist size and inseam length, will help in finding the right fit. Here at Messina Hembry we hand measure all our items to ensure you know their true size.

3. Gender neutral Levi’s

You can also forget the gender labels with vintage Levi 501s as they are gender neutral when it comes to the cut and shape. You could find a pair of men’s jeans that fit a woman’s body perfectly and vice versa.

4. Tailor-made Levi’s

You’ve found the perfect length, the perfect wash and the perfect amount of wear... but they don’t fit! Don’t panic. If the fit is loose this gives you the opportunity to get the tailor-made look with a few alterations. Taking your jeans to a tailor will mean you can have the perfect pair while keeping the vintage feel.

5. Avoiding Fake Levi’s

As Levi 501 vintage jeans are hot property, there are a number of fakes flying around the market. Here at Messina Hembry we go through all the checks for you and guarantee genuine vintage Levi 501s.

Check out our men’s jeans collection and our women’s selection to find the ones for you. Happy hunting!