How To Buy Vintage Denim Jeans

Everybody loves buying a new pair of contemporary jeans, but nothing beats the thrill of finding the perfect vintage denim jeans. That moment when you spot The Ones. Not hanging on a rail surrounded by 20 identical pairs, straight from the factory, but a truly unique pair of vintage jeans with an individual history. A pair of jeans that carry the characteristics of their past with a worn-in feel and look; authentically lived in and exuding an air of effortless style. There’s a relaxed simplicity that come with vintage jeans - the 100% cotton denim only improves with age and lasts for years.

What brands make the best vintage jeans?

Look for classic, heritage brands like Wrangler (established 1904), Lee (1889), or Diesel (1978), and of course Levi’s (1853) - a brand so synonymous with ‘vintage jeans’ that we’ve written a guide specifically to buying vintage Levi’s. These brands are well constructed and can look great for years. That said, there’s a wide array of alternative brands available for you to peruse in your search for the perfect vintage denim jeans.

Take your time

Set aside some time, understand that it's going to take you a while to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans, and enjoy the experience. Part of the fun is exploring the styles, cuts and unique adornments that make up the vintage denim market.

Size matters...or does it? Ignore traditional labels!

It’s commonly accepted that vintage jeans are typically a couple of sizes smaller than modern jeans. It’s best to try them on if you’re buying in a bricks and mortar store. If you’re buying online, make sure there is a robust returns policy - such as the one we have at Messina Hembry.

The size on the label probably won’t be reflective of the true size of a worn in, vintage garment. If you’re used to wearing a certain size of jean, those rules don’t apply here, so try not to be precious or get hung up on sizing. Vintage jeans tend to be 100% cotton denim, unlike their modern equivalent which has a ‘stretch’ thanks to the elastene fabric.

So, size doesn’t really mean anything anymore. But what is key are the measurements, especially when you’re buying online. Our key tip here is to compare the measurements listed to a pair of jeans you already own and love. Ensure you cross reference the waist, cuff, rise, hips and inseam.

But what makes each pair so different? Much of this can be attributed to their past lives and the owner who has gone before. Denim changes over time and takes on the attributes and shape of the previous owner - whether it’s their waist, hips, and knees, or even their lifestyle. As a result of this they're all one-of-a-kind garments.

Here’s a good tip for a quick size check if you have lots of items in the fitting room: hold the waistband around your neck like a necklace. If you feel like you’re being strangled, the jeans are not for you! If the waistband meets and overlaps by a couple of inches, they should be a good fit.

Many people stick to the rule that you find pairs that are the right length. If you have to shorten a pair of vintage jeans, there is the possibility that whole leg is going to fit wrong - the knee-holes won’t be on the knees; other adornments or embellishments may not be where they were intended.

However, you may find your perfect vintage jeans that don’t quite fit as perfectly as you’d like and tailoring is still an option. If you find an expert, they’ll be able to make the necessary adjustments to achieve a perfect fit, without compromising the vintage feel you wanted in the first place.

If you want to ‘DIY shorten’ your jeans, a good tip is don’t waste your time hemming them. It works fine to just cut them with fabric scissors, then rough up the edges with a nail file for an imperfect frayed edge. Putting them in the tumble dryer also helps loosen up the threads.

Vintage jeans don’t mean vintage prices

As with anything in life, don’t buy cheap. Don’t get us wrong, we love a bargain. But look for a bargain on good quality vintage jeans - the right pair could last you for years. Investing in a good vintage pair that will last a long time will ultimately end up being more cost effective than shelling out for cheaper jeans that you need to replace.

Know your figure

An awareness of what style and era of jean fits which body shape will be useful in your quest for vintage jeans.

Hourglass figure
Will typically suit older pair (any jean until the mid '90s), because they tend to be more nipped in at the waist.

Rectangular
Search for a pair of jeans that was manufactured in the mid to late 1990s. This was an era in which men started started wearing their jeans toward their hips and the style of the time reflects that trend.

Rounder tummy
A zip fly rather than button will help be more flattering and help keep your tummy looking flat.

Finally, the great thing about denim is that although styles have changed over time, modern denim borrows so heavily from past styles that vintage looks just as fresh, if not more cutting edge than contemporary styles. So really, you can’t go wrong!

Whatever brand, style or look you’re going for, we hope this guide has helped give you a steer on how to go about buying your vintage denim jeans. Check out our men’s jeans range and women’s denim selection today and find your perfect pair.